The Hidden Treasures of Guatemala's Maya Biosphere Reserve
Birds, howler monkeys and Maya ghosts are all part of the crowd in Uaxactún.
The Maya Biosphere Reserve in northern Guatemala is a bird spotter's heaven, and where the elusive slaty-tailed trogons and blue-crowned motmots can be glimpsed with surprising ease along the jungle road between the Mayan cities of Tikal and Uaxactún.
For the untrained eye, families of spider monkeys and playful coatis are slightly simpler to spot. In other parts of the country, these creatures stay as far away from the road as possible, but as this 20km stretch sees hardly any traffic beyond Tikal, it's the perfect wildlife spotting destination.
Few visitors take the time to venture beyond the sprawling Mayan city of Tikal, but plenty of treats await those willing to go that bit further, in the ancient sacred spot of Uaxactún.
As the forest suddenly opens up to reveal Uaxactún, you'll spot something that doesn't quite fit in an ancient sacred place – an old airstrip. Founded at the beginning of the last century to support the excavations of the oldest Maya city ever discovered, the airstrip and surrounding village were used by the American teams of archeologists. Today, it flows seamlessly into an expanse of ancient ruins.
In many ways, Uaxactún has barely awakened from its thousand-year slumber. While some pyramids have been excavated, most of the ancient city remains hidden under a thick layer of jungle. Apart from the sounds emanating from the dense foliage, the site is remarkably silent. Instead of coach-loads of tourists, howler monkeys are often the only thing keeping visitors company.
You can spend the night in the tented lodge right next to the pyramids of Uaxactún. It's comfortable if a little basic – don’t expect wifi or a phone signal. It’s well worth going off the grid though to experience the magical atmosphere of the jungle at night as you dine right next to the candle-lit pyramid. Crossing these sacred grounds in utter darkness on the way back to your tent, the ghosts of the ancient Maya won't seem all that far away.
For something a little more luxe, there's lakeside opulence at La Lancha, the luxury resort perched on a hill overlooking Lago Petén Itzá. Their custom-built mini funicular takes guests to the emerald waters of the lake, where there's the choice of kayak trips, swimming, or a few rounds in the temazcal – a Mayan sweat lodge – nearby.
Jurriaan Teulings
Jurriaan dreamt of becoming either an astronomer or a circus clown. He became a lawyer instead, but finally found the ultimate fit for his free-range mind as a travel writer and photographer. A Stroopwafel evangelist, he's also won a few awards: two in plexiglass, one in bronze, and one made of beads. The biggest prize: 20 years of travel to all continents and 99 countries so far.
Images of Uaxactún by Jason Houston for USAID